🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.